a friend has asked me to do some research for him.
So the question is. Would subs under the front seats be ok. There is enough space for a custom box to fit in a 10" sub. 12's would fit but the box would not be big enough. So what would be the best way to go about this.

Reason for this is because its going into a wagon and he does not want the subs to be seen.

Thanks

G.

just get a set if alpines bass engines, they are errmmm "vibrators" that attach to your seat.

i have heard of those vibrator things that are like subs under your seats as well. i also heard that you will make some women very happy when they sit in that seat.

Do they give the bass subs do? If they dont sounds like a good idea for the rear seats

I dont think youd get enough volume under teh seat... you need about a cubic foot for most subs... and teh depth would be a problem due to the magnet size etc....

I may be wrong but I dont think itd be functional or very successful..i if you wanna save space try some small free to air subs and mount them in the parcel shelf or something... make sure to brace it though to prevent vibration and carryt he extra weight.

Please note: Im a complete n00b when it comes to audio gear just using logic and common sense to try and compile some form of helpful response.

its a wagon so there is no parcel shelf. There is just over 1cubic foot under each of the seats. and i have taken out one of my 12" subs and it fits under there no probs. but the volume of the box wouldnt be the same.

You dont want free air subs? Pioneer make em, dont know what they go like.

The problem with free-air subs is that they don't perform nearly as well as a sub in a box!

-
Mcleod

well i guess i will build up the boxes try it with some cheap 10" subs first. if it will sounds ok ( i know cheap and ok dont go together ) then i will continue with the setup otherwise i could always modify the boot space to have the subs in and carpet it over. so you would never know they were there.

"The problem with free-air subs is that they don't perform nearly as well as a sub in a box!"

That is not quite accurate at all. A free air sub has an entirely different set of mechanical parameters for it that makes it optimized to work in this kind of environment. Now if the installation is not done properly, meaning the rear pressure wave is allowed to make contact with the front pressure wave (like under a seat) then you are defeating the purpose of a free air sub. A free air sub MUST have isolation between the front and rear pressure wave in order to work properly. Then and only then will and can free air subs even exceed that of a boxed type system. I encourage the readers to take a trip up here to the Great White North for a visit to www.canadiancaraudio.com and look at this thread.

http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/ubb/ultima...=3;t=010212;p=9

Some good reads on this thread from some heavy hitters here.

I'm with Rob on the free air situation.

If you do wish to make up some custom fiberglass enclosures for under each seat there are pleanty of subs designed for this, with a very slimline design. Just as an example you could look at the following...

Slimline 10" Dynaudio

what about those subs deisgned to go in wheel wells, they are pretty skinny, i think rockford fosgate makes them and due to them being designed for a tyre well i dont think they'll need much room.

www.caraudioaustralia.com

1cuft is a heaps enough for a decent 10inch sub, you'll also be able to put some 12's in that airspace also.

Be sure to leave enough 'breathing space' in front of the sub cone for it to 'breathe' or it will sound muddy and muffled.

Don't Hertz make slimline subwoofers too???
I would definately try to leave at least 50mm (or as much space as possible)between the subwoofer/top of the box and the underneath of the seat... if possible.

Go and measure the available space (height wise) you have in the car. Just remember that the box may sit higher due to a funny shaped floor or corrugated surface, and you have to take into account the thickness of the MDF you use to make the box (or whatever material you use).

You can then have a look at some subs that will fit within the box, and work well in whatever volume enclosure you make (make to manufacturers specs). I would also design the box to leave some space behind the magnet structure, if it has a vented pole piece/coil.
Fixxxer

Maybe look at some of Pioneers new sub range. They have some now that are a flat design and are designed for utes.

Maybe this sort of concept could be used?

Thanks people. Will start on this job within the next month and will be sure to post up pics of how it went and tell you if its worth it or not.
Also where can i find those alpine bass engines to put under the rear seats cause i cant see them on their websites.

how about the pioneer skinnny subs

i know this has been done in a patrol

corect me if im wrong but the alpine 12 type X is ment 2 b in a 1cubic foot box 2 work its best...and it can take 3000rms and is recomended 2 run no less then 1500rms so if u lookin 4 a bang 4 ur buck at just over $500 a sub id go that way

like i said correct me if i wrong thou :s

dont forget that u will need to use AT LEAST 18mm mdf... but thicker is better...so also factor this into ya box design... i dont tihhnk this will be too successful for a few reasons...but hey prove me wrong !!

If i was your mate i would be building a custom box that lifts the whole level of the rear luggage space (place 2 subs in here) and hide it with a fake covering pannel.... Then u can install amps into the back seats (with some fans to keep them cool) and fabricate a pannel for that too... the beauty of this setup is u can show it off easily by removing the paneels and transform it back to a stock looking ride for the weekdays... got to love the old IASCA stealth themes...

yes, great BFYB sub... but when it comes to getting an amp to power them to potential..... there goes all you "bucks"

as for the volume 1 cubic foot should be ok (in terms of Alpine stats) but you'd be better of asking some1 on CAA who has tested sub with different box sizes to get the most out of this sub -- its only 1000rms (3000w MAX power) -- prob still wanna chuck 1500wrms through it though.

o yer price is a little over $500 - its $900

on topic however -- it mite not give the most bass but 8" woofers in doors could be an option OR when i had a wagon i just bought myself a blanket to chuck over the stuff OR get a parcel shelf made/make it yourself/improvise something like one anyway OR build in a false floor and have a cover over the top. Just go to a professional who can give you ideas eh.

$900 ... dont think so i just picked 1 up the other day at northfield for $560...o yeah and best box size is 3 cubic foot not 1 but still should go well in 1. im runnin 3000rms throu it and it aint died yet so either im lucky or ur info is a little off good luck with the install nyways.

retail is $899 - wut u paid is a different matter.
as for RMS i thought u would have been referring to max power -- seemed quite coincidental ... my bad...and on that note holy fuck 3000wrms is jaw dropping and i assume ear popping lol.

to the guy who started this topic -- depending on your budget choose between a Type R and a Type X--as far as i know both require around same volume (havent checked it so could be wrong)

so if you want to spend a little less go with the Type R rrp. $399
other place you save is on the amp -- spec = 500wrms -- so put around 800-1000wrms and you'll be very happy - in terms of price you'd prob be looking at at least $800 to $1500 for an amp which will really power the sub.

whereas if you go type X - it sounds better in terms of SQ - and id assume goes louder -- but unless you're into SPL comps its not a biggy cause type R's will go beyond your ears comfort level anyway. But major disadvantage is you'd have to spend up really big on a decent amp to get the most out of the sub...

so Type R + Amp at worst id reckon $1600 and Type X + Amp at worst id reckon would be $2600 (when i say at worst i mean if you pay retail price).

but yeah just a thought

Thanks for all the info people. after some further research it aint worth the effort to put em under the seats. So heres what the setup is gonna be like.
Alpine fantomface h/u ( undecided which model)
Alpine 5 1/2" split Front door speakers
Alpine 4" rear door speakers
2x 12" type r subs in boot in custom box.

and something out of the ordinary has to be added so the tweeters are going to be moulded into the headrests.

And to solve the problem of people being able to see whats in the car. The original speaker grills will be used for the doors and the back section of the car is getting black tinting. ( I had to check it out if it was legal and turns out it is down here in vic for the rear sections of cars )

So everything will turn out great. Will post up pics when its complete.

And can someone close this topic now cause i cants see the button for it

Errrrr..... does anyone else think this is a REALLY bad idea?

yeah i agree selfdestruktor - you will blink everytime a cymbol hits lol. If you wanna do something different - just a random idea - make the tweeter look like a boost gauge or something and mould it -- you really really dont want a tweeter right next to your head lol. if anything i would have thought a bit of distance between you and the tweeter would be good for sq but meh ur choice

Totally bad idea, same with buying all one brand unless that is what sounds best to your ears.

why do people think that putting tweeters up as high as possible and close to your ears is the best thing...

its about as pleasent to listen to as ya missus bitching....

fine no tweeters in the headrests. will look into it fully on monday. i get a day off ( 1st day off in 3 weeks ). I have been happy with what i have heard with all the alpine gear and also i got a friend who sells alpine down here in melb so i get them cheaper than retail. So where would you guys recomend putting the tweeters. I could always get the tweeter moulds from subaru for the door. like on the inside of the mirror. if you people have any other ideas let us know.

Thanks

i have been told that the best way for the split to work to its best potential is have the tweeter with in like 4 inches of the woofer....is this correct so guy can have an idea where to place the tweeter????!!!!!

maybe you'd be interested in doing 8's or 10's in the doors , if you could fit them , if you can fit a subwoofer box under the seat then goodluck

The Alpine SWX-1242D (12"X-Type) RRP $699 (priced has dropped)
recommended power 1000w input We have a car in the showroom at the moment with 2 x 12" x-type with 2x MRD1001's running 'em. You can run these in small sub boxes as long as you have the amp to back 'em up.