yer thought so, mmm any ideas on toyota turbo or supercharged diffs?

dont think there is any out there.. just use the old ksev diff and if it blows it blows.. then upgrade to somethin else.. remember that the T18 diffs were behind bigger motors than the old lunky 4k, the hiace/lux diff made for a car bigger n heavier, and same with the r31 too... all big enough to handle what ur going to be abusing it with...

yer thats true, probably a stupid question but no chance of getting an r200 in there at all? and t18, are they lsd or open centre?

t18 are an open centre, you can however buy aftermarket lsds for them.. and an r200 sits in a cradle under the car so unless your good at fabrication i'd doubt it very much..

lol again...seriously bloke...do the research first...hell even find an ae86 and have alook at first...

your only option for a decent diff that will hold the power reliably is a F/G/E series toyota diff or as already stated a R31 borg warner (off which doesnt require to be shorten'd whoever said that)...

im building a ~120 rwkw n/a engine and im not even bothering with a stock t series diff...simply because they are shithouse...but rather than putting a heavier stronger diff into the car im opting for billet axles and a few other trick bits to go into it to keep the weight down...you would be quite silly to think for a moment that a t series will handle the abuse of a ca18/sr20...especially with a newb driver behind the wheel forever clutch kicking/mishifting etc

personally...with your limited range of knowledge as proven by the thread and the pretty ordinary advice you've been getting, dnt bother with an ae86...

reasons being, u dnt seem all that knowledgeable, you seem to have quite a low budget as shown by wanting easy options not $$ ones...

an ae86 will cost you money, time and time again...the chassis by now is generally quite weak and would require some strengthening work done to prevent it falling apart at some point from the power/torque you would quite easily get from a ca18/sr20...

basically considering they are thought of as cheap shitters to skid...they are far from that....trust me i know...

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=465737

supercharged diff? hell yeah! dunno how you would go mounting an sc14 to the axle though...

Seriously man, youve been given 3 pages of advice about diffs, why are you still asking?

youve been given 3 pages of "go to AE86DC"s as well, but your still here

the r31 silhouette diff is the diff of choice, as with all of the 31 solid axle diff's they are 40mm longer and need to be cut down, bonus is that it is also 114.3 x 4. tail shaft can be obtained for about $250 from gibbs trucks on the coast. Running an SR or CA engine placement has the be perfect for the shifter to poke through the original hole in the floor pan. you can also use ra60 celica struts with the vented RA60 290mm brakes (also 114.3 x 4) and big single pot calipers, and for a little more camber you can us GE sigma lower control arms but will f**k with the ackerman, so you wouldn't cut down the diff soo much. You'll also need RA40 tie rod ends with the RA60 struts.
HT Monaro rear shocks will bolt straight in, , get adjustable as they are stiff, they will lower the ride height as they are short stroke (koni red's are about $300/pair)

i'd suggest if you can find one using a starion turbo booster and master cylinder with your brake upgrade as it bolts straight in.

This is awesome.

Ke70's are sweet cheap cars to get set up cheaply. But that won't last once you start putting Datsun motors in it.

In my AE86 I've spent close to 6000 on suspension bits, so it does start to add up when you get serious.