A new thread for all those Mechanical questions, how to's.
Post up here and see if someone can help with a problem.
Done a mod recently? Post up how and the results!
Know how to fix something easier than the usual?
Done something to your car thats of interest? Tell us how it was done.


Share your Knowledge!


No spam! Just questions and answers etc please.

Cheers

ok, got this problem with my mx73 cressida, hoping someone can help.

when i start it, it runs fine etc, but takes ages for me to be able to move, i cant rev it, i can put my foot flat, but doesnt do shit.
so i have to wait ages to be able to warm it up properly etc.
also when i take off, it is verrrrrry slow, have to put my hazzards on its so slow. (just ask rallydat1600, briza, etc)
takes forever to get up to speed.

struggles up hills, changes gears like crazy, sometimes doesnt nearly make it up hills, or doesnt at all.

hasnt got any oil leaks, rattles, vibrations, nothing

thinking its the torque converter, but not completely sure.

heres some of the symptoms showing it could be the torque converter

:No power transfer from the engine to the rear drive wheels. Car starts fine. Engine runs fine. Differential works. Driveshaft does not turn. Enough transmission fluid, Over heating, no power on take off, trans leak or lots of noise, vibrations.

just want to know if that seems right an has anyone else had this problem?

going to drain the oil on the weekend to see if its glittery, been told if its glittery thats a sign of a dodge t/c.

also been told that it might not be gettin the oil up, like its saying no im not going anywhere lol

any help would be good.

cheers

get a second hand auto old kid.
its rooted.
its plain and simple.

had a plenty of fucked autos in my time.

a rebuild will be over 2k.

get on toymods and advertise for one. one of the mainlad MX73 guys will def have one.
prob cost u fuck all to be honest. plus delivery.

ohh i was hoping it wouldnt be the whole box. ill ask on toymods an some other forums, but any ideas where i can get a box down here? would rather get one from tassie than another state

i went to register on toymods but it said The administrator has disabled registration, please try again later.

Cant be sure,but i think Grove road wreckers may have had an old cressida out the back last time i got some bits....Just japenese are always good too...(dunno if they are about anymore...been a long time since the last jappa),maybe even the old tripper down kingston wreckers....but i wouldnt stuff around with the box thats in it,get another one...good secondhandys should be plentiful...Grampas never used to belt em....

On another point,Commodore Diffs

All diff centres are interchangable from VL turbo/V8 to VT S1,it dont matter if its live axle or IRS.
To change your Standard VL Diff to a Turbo/V8 diff you only need the 28 spline axles from an 8 or turbo,normal RB30 had 25 spline axles,and put your choice of centre in from a later model.
Diff gears are also interchangable between VL to VT s1 with the Skyline/pintara range of gears.

coolies, now i can list my prelude problems
1. runs very rich, blows lots of black/dark grey smoke always, hence very poor fuel economy, assuming this is o2 senosor.
2. hesitates on throttle, sometimes, jumps (like abunnyhop at certain place on throttle) like its dumping too much fuel and cant burn it, this sometimes goes away when it gets warmer.
3. steering rack movement, once i hit 70+kph it starts to shake the steering wheel a bit, then gets worse with more speed, wheel alignment and balance didnt help at all, thinking replace all the bushes...\
4. rev hunts when warming up, not when cold or warm, only inbetween, in neutral or when braking with clutch in it goes from about 1k to 2k revs up and down about once per second. - thinking IACV or air in the coolant, but coolant bleed didnt help...

ok, go

mega pissed about all that stuff, when i test drove it, was fine, first 2 weeks or so i had it, fine, then these started developing...funsies...thanks in advance

Well,1,2 and 4 are all symptoms of a buggered sensor.....with commos u can do an error test with a paperclip...can you do the same with the prelude?Google might help...

i have seen a cressida sitting in a back yard in rokeby, been there for a while that i know of. if interested i can get the address for u, it might have a good auto

yeah we (me n cheddle) tried to get it to give CEL codes with the paperclip. didnt work for some reason, engine light works fine, but didnt read any codes...

nath gimme a buzz i and ill help u with the code sorting.
happy to come and help u sort it.

may do just that thanks mate! have ordered a new TPS and will have ordered an o2 sensor too, just a prick finding parts for a honda.

anyone know where there is a high performance workshop in the north of tas like launceston area

quick question guys if u put a vr V6 motor/box into a vk commodore does it need to go get an Engineers cert/mod plate or does it just need to get pit passed and engine change form done? as the vk was already fuel injected and is still a 6cyl.. ??? any help before i start would be great..
as if its to much stuffing round may just put a v8 in it..
was looking at the v6 as it makes the same power as a stock 308 and better for everyday driving being fuel injected

any info and ideas would be great..

Id say yes to mod plated for the main reasn your going from a 202? isnt that a 3.3litre? to a 3.8 and power is increasing/ best option is to ring an engineer he would be able to tell you yay or nay to needing a plate. Just be a typical Tasmanian and just put it in and go for gold hahaha

can anyone recomend me a good place on the eastern shore to get a car pitted? from what i can see everything is ready on the sil to get registration

Remember i shot gun a ride

is coopers close ?

yeah kinda wanna do it right tho panda.. lol, and just thought seeing as they came out in 5.0 litre putting a 3.8 litre in might not need a mod plate as a 5.0 litre doesnt

yeah theres a couple near me i think, they good are they?

Google "V6 Conversion Shop". There is bloke called Pat Gardner (??). Buy the kit from him and it's already engineered.

Should be ok if you get an engineered conversion kit for it....ie CRS,Pat Gardner,and I reckon you would need to fit the disc brake rear end,and the V8 booster etc.....

if anyone launnie way wants a hand doing basic mech stuff i'm willing to help
my price ranges anywhere from $0.00 to Beer
i dont know everything but i know a bit

oil changes are my speciality

but if any one wants to help me, i might need to change an rb30 head over in the not too distant future (when it stops f'ing raining)

Easier just to bolt a VN, VP, etc crossmember in and use the V6 engine mounts. I can't see it being an issue if you are using factory parts. For the amount of trouble you would go to doing the conversion I'd personally put a decent engine like an EFI 5 litre in

yeah but the reason im doing it is because its so easy to do. everything pretty much bolts straight in and sorry i was ment to say a VP v6 not VR.. and with a v6 and a set of nice diff gears it should get along nicely and be decent on fuel.. i will be using it as a daily as well..

just wasnt sure on the mod plate bit.. a stock v6 has more power then a stock carby 308 just not as nice a sound.. lol and will be more reliable, wont have to let it warm up, wont get looked at by cops or people who like to take others cars! i hope..

as for the efi 5L if it wasnt going to be a daily i would of looked at that option but a efi 5L alone costs more then a running complete VP commodore, lol so will work out alot cheaper

i dont see why u should, bro in law did the same thing a while back an didnt need one, so u shouldnt

ok Ksev so ur brother in law only needed to get it pit passed with new motor then not mod plated???

yeh pretty sure, he said he didnt have any issues
ill double check with him tomorrow an post back here

ok, cheers.. was he happy with the conversion? was it what he expected? power wise? driveability? and i know there not a power house but compared to a 202 was he happy with the 3.8litre?

Go in ask for dan hall ( he's got a 180 ) tell him mookie told u he was good

yeh was what he expected, drives great, a lot better power wise, acceloration, everything, he loves it, goes wicked, wouldnt go back.
ive driven it, its great.

cheers for the help Ksev.. and every1 else..

no worries will get back to u

Been looking this arvo for a decent article on auto sr20de to manual sr20det conversions, but all i seem to find are threads of people being flamed for not searching, or people being told to just go buy a car thats already det. can someone either show me a link, or write up a list of all the stuff i'll need for swapping over?

im only guessing here but it should be a piece of piss i researched the same conversion idea with my jza80 and as long as you use the same halfcut its all basically swap over.

this may help

conversion

hey man still havent talked to him so will let u know as soon as i can lol

also thinking my cressida could have an oil pressure problem amongst a few other things, so may not be the box ive been told, taking it to mechanic during the week to get it looked at

as long as the whole engine is being swapped being a nissan id expect problems to be met with the tail shaft and wiring but dont personally know much about it...


if your changing your auto sr20de to a manual sr20de+t then its another kettle of fish


on a side note my front suspension is REALLY creaky when truning and sometimes over bumps... i know for a fact the ball joints are stuffed but i unfortunately had to use them, this weekend im changing them but is there anything else i should change while im under there???


do pillow ball strut tops need maintenance? like re-greesing or anything???

Hmm i got a noise i cant seem to locate. I seem to get a clunking/tapping feeling in reverse and when i brake lately and also when i reverse i get a creaking sound/feel. The clunking i can feel with my foot on the footrest.

Just for those that dont know its a 3rd Gen Magna, 17" rims, Pedders suspension all around. Brakes were only changed in October last year and have had around 7-8 months use.

Will take it for drive tomorrow and try to get exact feel of what the clunking is.

its dying dan

did u find out what it is?

was it your brakes?

Im looking at turbo my anglia, it has a 1600 cross flow on it. i have found a motor on ebay a 1600 with a t3. i wanna know how hard it is to get a turbo to work proper on a carb'd car? as in a/f mix's and what not

do r33 calipers have brackets and slides like r31 ones or does the whole caliper just bolt to the hub?

nah they dont have slides as such... the pads are removed by removing 2 locating pins and they slide out from there

so r33 gtst calipers bolt to s13 hubs without any brackets as such?

yep same bolt spacing. got straight on.
but you will need redilled r33 rotors.

if a car bubbles the coolant reguardles of weather its consistant or not it would still be the head gasket right ?

if the coolant bubbles its bhg generally. If it blows a lot of stean after running a while, same deal. Oil got coolant in it?

nah oil is fine

this on the n13? Compression check...

i wana know how to get an xf tb onto my ca18det stock intake plenum, does it have to be welded? Ive die grinded the bolt holes to try line it up, then will port the plenum inlet to suit, but the kent wont go on ... Anyone done it b4?