right so im just gonna make a single thread for all my sil questions from now on.... ill just keep updating this... (yeah idea was stolen off a few of you)



latest problems.......
handbrake light stays on when its disengaged: low brake fluid?

clutch felt different on my drive home from work tonight..... i drove it to work and it felt fine, but on the way home it felt like it didnt want to grip properly, and only really grabs the gear when the pedal is almost at its natural spot (how it is when the foot isnt on, if that made sense): could i have a leak in my master cylinder or something?

aaaaaaaaaaaand..........
theres a pipe running from my dump pipe up to some thingymajig above the exhaust manifold..... wtf is it? cos my new dump pipe doesnt have a place for this pipe to be attached..... will get pics if it helps you lot.....

1: Sell the Silvia
2: Buy a Corolla
3: Get all the ladies and NO engine problems
4: ??????????
5: Profit?



amidoinitrite?

no you are doing it very very wrong

Does you hand brake work?.
Last time i messed with the hand brake i did it up too tights and the handle wouldnt reach its neutral position. therefore it left the light in the dash on.

the brake works mostly...... it stops the car from rolling when its up, even on hills, but it doesnt stop me from accidentally driving off with it applied and not realising til i change gears.....

Have you had a look at your resivoir levels? does the clutch share the same fluid as the brake system? I'm not specifically familer with Silvas. But if you've got say a leakign clutch slave, it could be draining fluid from the brake M/C which could result in what your seeing. As to the dump pipe, my guess is it would be part of your EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Which is part of the emissions systems. I bet your new pipe doesn't have it as its quite common to delete it in a performance application (unsure about the legality of doign such a thing tho..)

Yeah what this dude said, my former car, a 98 Laser, one day decided to keep the handbrake light on all the time, i checked the brake/clutch fluid and it was just below max so that couldnt have been a problem. So took it to the shop thinkin its gonne be a dodgey wire connection somewhere thats giving wrong info, but they said they just had to adjust the handbrake screw or something, and it was all good.

In another incident a year later, the fluid got low, the light went on so i topped the fluid up, then 2 weeks later the light went on, so i topped it up again, so i took it to Ford and they said it was just a leaking seal for the clutchfluid cap, even though there was no oil residue leaking from the top. and they charged me to fix it. Then same thing happened 2 weeks later and it was weird that there were no oil spots outside the car, the only thing it had to be was leaking inside. So i checked under the steering wheel and looked at the pedals, and sure enough it was leaking down the wall at the front to all over my carpet. I didnt even realise coz i have footmats under my feet while im driving. I took it to the shop and they replaced the clutch slave and master cylider, and i never had a problem with it after that.

I refuse to go back to ford ever again

1. there is a switch on the handbrake check thats its not stuck. your switch may not work anymore... theres a 10mm nut on a threaded rod on the hand brake in to tighten out to loosen, you can gain access to it through the handbrake cover

2. check ya clutch fluid, might be worth flushing the system, could be leaking or not slave or masters not doing there job properly, or your clutch could be on the way out, stop riding the clutch

3. that EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) emissions control, its useless. fuck the whole system off, pretty easy to do too...

btw I was the bloke behind you at mvr early this year. white sil

yeah i remember you. you were telling me something about the cops defecting you for engine mounts i think.

right well i wont really have time to look at the car properly til thursday, but when i do ill let y'all know how i go....

How in the hell do you get defect for engine mounts. O.o they would have to be litterally nothing for em to notice that the engine mounts are screwed.

ARG. stupid defections and shit.

solid engine mounts are a no no as are broken mounts

right, i filled the brake thingymebobs and the handbrake is fine now.....


and im confused...... the clutch has gone back to normal, as inexplicably as when it sorta stuffed up.................... im confused.....................

Lol buy those mags for $150

it was nothing to do with engine mounts, it was to do with non adr or TAC approved modified steering components and dampeners of my suspension being too stiff and some minor things as well, wheels not contained within the body line, brake line touching on sway bar at full lock, an exhaust leak. how ellas old S13 got off defect 2 or 3 times is fucking beyond me considering i wasn't too comfortable driving it.

full lock???
they checked the brake lines at full lock?!

you really did get the bottom of the barrel didnt you..

no he didn't i did...
you know your fucked when you have 3 inspectors in the pit shaking the fuck out of your car looking for more shit to defect you on

It is common knowledge in the auto industry that inspectors will go through imports like a dose of salt due to the fact that the insurance companies will hesitate to cover them under a policy, i feel your anguish when this happens as i consistently see ricers on the road in much better condition that some of the locally made models but what can you do

i don't actually believe that shit ay, about the imports and crap i think thats just fucking nonsense, a MVR won't give two shits about an insurence company its simply not there place of business or problem for that mater... the way i see it the other S13 i referred to didn't have much stuff done to it beside the intercooler and stuff

tho even though my car did look standard on the out side its a completely different story when you look underneath it lots of blue, red and machined alloy parts and they looked at all of them including the HICAS lock out bar.

and no its not "common knowledge in the auto industry that inspectors will go through imports like a dose of salt" its they're bloody job FFS to go through any car like that. i really don't care that i went in defected for a broken mirror and came out with more defects, at lest their doing they're job i can only hope that they keep doing they're job like that so that some busted ass repair job or some kids dodgy back yard skills cause a car to say, i dunno lose control of a car or send it up in flames which could have much worse out comes. standards are there for a reason not because someone's trying to control you.

lest i got to see my taxes at work instead of paying some fat @#$! behind a keyboard to sleep all day.

honestly, i'd prefer them pick it up and defect me before i find out the hard way that something needs replacing...............

Back on topic.... well this leads me to belive that your clutch and brake system share the same fluid resivoir, which isn't unusual, and you have a leak somewhere. My guess would be the clutch slave cylinder, this is pretty common , but it could also be the clutch Master cylinder, Brake Master, or your wheel cyl/pistons/calipers. When you topped up the fluid and operated the clutch a few times you probably worked enough pressure up for it to start working properly again. Also by filling the resivoir you have reset the brake warnign light (which also your handbrake light).. might pay to have it looked at by somone....

clutch and brake master cylinders are not shared on s13's

if the clutch master cylinder is running out of fluid often i'd be looking up under the dash for wet carpet and looking at the clutch slave cylinder to see if it is covered in jizz (fluid). if the slave cylinder is leaking you can replace it it an r31 skyline one on the cheap or spend $175 for a new s13 one. sr20 and ca18 slave cylinders are the same part.

if the master cylinder is leaking then you can use an s12 rebuild kit to fix that issue.


as for your brakes...... fuck knows without looking at it in person

righteo, so i woke up at some ungodly hour (theres a 7 AM?) this morning to taxi mummy dearest to work.... and i noticed something a slightly queer occurance within my automobile. it appeared that when i applied pressure to the acceloratrix whilst nought pressure on the clutch pedal, the engine revolutions increased with no obvious indication of acceleration. i deduce that i may indeed have mechanical gremlins within my clutch, and i bothers me so.

tally ho chaps.
-------------------------
got up early today, and when driving i noticed some that when i pushed the accelerator, the revs climbed up a few hundred, then went down a bit, with no speed increase. it only really happened when i floored it, but i dont think i should be getting such an occurance when im in 3rd, and around 50km/h..... this event is not restricted to just 3rd either..... noticed it in 1st through to 4th (not enough torque in 5th to really try to check) honestly dont really know how i can describe whats happening....... it has me confused. could it be that the temperature was making the clutch a bit weaker?

if it helps,

i dont ride the clutch (hand brake and neutral at lights)
i dont do burnouts/drop the clutch (been to court once, scare the shit out of me, dont want to go back)
i only do quick shifts maybe 3/4 times a day, and is only ever 2nd to 3rd

sorry if this is confusing......


*ripped directly from my post in technical..... was hoping one of you lot would know......

Your clutch is slipping. Time for a new one.

thing is though, the slippage was non existent last night.... i dont know much about them but i dont know how it could change so obviously overnight.....

The symptoms you describe suggest a shagged clutch. If you dont know WTF your doing take it to someone who does.

The slipping would be either leaky rear main oiling up the clutch, or clutch/pressure plate is cactus.

When he says cheap he means cheap. Just stuffed the slave on the skyline and a new one if i could get it was over 150 bucks. The one for the r31 which they had in stock at repco was 18 bucks... I walked away heppy



You may have tried to do skids bro or quick shift and the clutch got a bit hot there for began slipping even more and more and more and more. This is common other wise as Joe said could be the rear main or the clutch is ust stuffed.

oh well..... just gotta get more $$$ and order a new one

With my old clutch before the twin plate(OMFGLAWL), Only initially slipped intermittantly, then only slipped when car had been running for awhile, silly me just kept winding the boost down to keep it from slipping **headdesk/lazy**, then eventually, just slipped all the time, and when I went to replace it, flywheel had 3 or 4 hairline cracks about 4cm's long in various spots around the flywheel.

Edit: So I suppose what I am saying is, replace it early

$380 for and xtreme drift clutch.

not too heavy on the pedal , you can live iwth it on the street and a fuck load more grab than other "heavy duty" clutch kits

NPC ftw

right, found out the problem..... VERY LOW fluid....... huge thanks to steve from autobarn for making me actually check the fluid level..... (hey, im a n00b with my car still, i dont know what most fluid reservoirs are for...)

now it runs good again

there is a problem there if it was low on fluid.

keep an eye on it and check up under the dash for fluid on the fire wall.


clutch master cylinder rebuild kit is the same as the sr 20 one listed in the pbr book.


can also get away with using an s12 rebuild kit

yeah i think i'll be lifting the sil up sometime soon and just looking at everything to check for leaks/breaks/ general wear etc....

Hmmmmm should have just read my own topic, and i would have saved a little time......

so would my assumption be accurate in saying swapping the cyl is just undoing a few bolts, dis/reconnect the lines and bleed it?

and anyone available to help swap my clutch? i got no tools and no money to get a mechanic to do it

got no time for my own shit or would help. tis a easy job on a hoist. for the slave yeah its two bolts i think and one for the actual line. Then swap it over and bleed it. tis really a 15 minute job.

1: jack the front end up and sit it on stands or use ramps.
2: undo the line that runs into the slave cylinder
3: undo the 2 bolts that hold the slave to the gearbox

reverse these instructions to install the new one.
fill with brake fluid and bleed the system.
lower the car onto the ground and go pull skids

ok, so i got a new slave from africa, and this one actually works....

first thing i noticed, is that i noticed no slip when i floored it in 3rd, so i guess i was right in thinking the slave wasnt 'telling' the transmission to apply full force to the clutch (if that makes any sense at all). oh well, i got a clutch ready for when it fucks up again....

ok so now my next question.... can anyone here recommend me a battery? putting in the fmic soon and i wanna know which is a good quality small battery. or would it be better to relocate to the back (even though i have no idea how thats done...)

energizer ... wouldnt bother relocating ya battery dude.

lol nah brudda energizer be too flash for me eh. i bin go get da coles brand batteries.

i didnt know coles made engines for datsuns

yeah theyre next to the 5L cheap wine

thought theyd be near the tampons like all the other girly shit ... or are you talking about a 5l with a hair dryer slapped on it?

well at least mine is nextto the ladies, and isnt found discarded in the communities

i dont drive a chocolate box (troopie)

well troopies are another form of government handout so they dont exactly take care of them......

tha fuck do they take care of? tha fuckers get a new 1 when it runs out of fuel probly, or when they have consumed teh fuel

small century battery and turn it sideways.

What consumable is 4L?

im sure i could find an ice cream tub in 4l...