Dont want to be left out in the cold with a single spinner of death?
Its time to cherp 1st and spin twins this season!

Warm up your diff this winter with a wild wet weather winter weldy
Thats right Get All your W's where you want them!
$50 a pop (price may vary depending on difficulty and type of car)

Persons must provide 1 can of brake cleaner, their required oil for the job,
disposal of old oil and their own gaskets (silicon sealant can be provided)

All work carried out by qualified welder fabricator, with the right tools for
the job.

HOBART AREA ONLY

DISCLAIMER: welded or locked diff are for off road and track use only,
I take no responsibility for damages/wear/breakages etc. that may occur.

Shoot me Pm or post up here for more details

Cheers Kieran

whats the turn around time?

quote on H190 with the need to drop the shafts out and pull the centre out the front?

quote on bluebird??

Rallydat, if it's the H175, don't do it. H190, go for it! Just pull the axles first otherwise they'll get heat treated and snap.

dont know if its applicable on the bluebird but apparently if u weld the diff on a H190 S12 you should/need to reinforce the rear trailing arms or the mounts can snap off the car just a seam of weld around the mounts works aparently...

Only really needed if you're going turbo and intend to thrash it. There are good articles on www.910bluebird.com about this.

tick the box all of the above

Right-o, if you want to do it right, you need to pull the carpets and brace the other side of the floor pan with 3mm steel plates, otherwise your welds around the trailing arm will just tear the floor pan.

Lets just say been there, done that!

hmm, migth have to get onot my bro about this on his car, they ahvnt torn/broken yet but weldy + sr20det might cause it

out of interest.. will these me miged or high carbon arc rods???

They will be MIG welded, and dont talk smack about having to use high carbon rods I havent had a weld break in a diff using MIG yet...

smashed my last one in the AE86 but that was a 3rd gear clutch kit on symmons and the crown wheel gave up and spat teeth every where lol



Bout an hour depends on amount of work needed and ease of getting it up in the air

PM's sent to those after quotes

Low hydrogen, not high carbon rods. And MIG is faster and just as strong as low hydrogen in the right hands.

nah thats cool just wondering!

I would highly recommend kieran and his work!

He did mine a couple of weeks ago, couldn't be more pleased with the results

Vk commodore diff still in a going car?

Are these a banjo style diff?
Sorry never worked on a commodore...

Nah there brog warner diffs mate dunno if there the same as any other cars around or not sorry

i've used high carbon rods before and braced, and they smashed the center apart, used the mig and it never broke . so from what i've seen/done, the mig is/was the best way of welding it (i take its ur mig is on gassssss?). Then again your talking small car sized wheels, where i had very very large wheels

I Heard a front wheel alignment is recommended after welding a diff so u can turn corners without being pushed into a sweeping bend Or just be a hero and DRiFT it LOL

how would a wheel allignment help unless it was out in the first place?
I've noticed mine understeers a bit more than before but it really is sweet FA. It still understeers less than my sprinter did though that might be the control arms helping a bit with the neg camber.
I must admit though a couple of times i have given up half way through a u turn or 3 point turn and flicked the car round. I spend a lot of time on gravel though!!

itll only understeer if u boot it too early while turning... it would be the same with any lsd...

my 31 diff is locked (minispool, not weldy tho) and i wouldnt have it any other way...

u cant beat a weldy..