Got a few questions (this isnt cerby, its a mate, using his account )

1) what is the name of the standard auto in a VL? ie: turbo 400, 700 etc etc

2) How strong is it compared to a turbo 400/700 gearbox?

3) How well will a standard rb30 take a turbo (the turbo coming off a turbo'ed motor)?

4) your thoughts, questions?


Justification;
im looking into putting a turboed rb30 into a 4wd, but im worried, that the auto will not stand up to the job. I know that a large number of people use the turbo 400/700 into there 4wd's, and they work well (strength wise)....


jimmy

That you Reddo?

The stock auto is made by Jatco and apparently won't take a turbo too well. An RB30 will take a turbo reasonably well, but your going to need VLT injectors, ECU, manifold, intake etc etc. Allow about $2k for the conversion.

www.calaisturbo.com.au has all the answers you need!

the auto will hate it and will last 1min to 1 month depending how you drive
VLT is an easyish conversion these days with Ebay cheepy kits,
Phil (with silver R31 at the drift days) is running a ebay turbo kit he picking up for around $700, then VLT ECU and injectors
you wont need the turbo intake, just get the cooler piping to run to the throttle body,
but $2k would be a base price to turbo a RB30
-Jake

yeah it is.

I was affraid of that, as i have seen a few boys smash the auto (myself included) with the standard set up.

Can a turbo 400/700 be adapted to suit a rb30?

I already have the VLT injectors, and i can pick up the intake, mainfold, pipes, fuel rail pretty cheap, however, im not sure about the turbo.

My current motor is a 2H oilburner with 177 of torque at 2000 rmp. it has 107 pony's at 3500.
Rb30 has 114 kW @ 5200 rpm and 248Nm @ 3600 RPM

Not only that, it is a far lighter motor than the current 2H.


thanks aido



it gets driven.......lol, and if it will bust, ill bust it

My other option, is wait for a XR6/BA turbo to come up at auction, and put that in. however, i already have lots of Vl parts kicking around, and was going to experiment with what i have.

i know its a poo question, but does the shift stick in the auto BA falcons actually connect with the gearbox? or is it 100% computer controlled?

Another aspect, is that i can sell my current motor for 1500/2g with the box attached, which leaves me with pleanty of cash to play arond with a new motor conversion.

Not keen on getting a trans built for it are ya Jimmy? The Jatco's can be strengthened enough to run 9's and hold 1000hp, but you'll pay for it.

In all seriousness, why do you want to go auto? Are you planning on using it as a comp vehicle?


Somehow I doubt he'll be putting a FMIC on a 40-Series Cruiser!

Why wouldn't you? FMIC look awesome crusiers

Personally I'd go with a trimatic over a Jatco. The T400/700 could be adapted but would cost a fortune, especially when you can buy a trimatic conversion which will hold big hp relitively cheap. Another option is a powerglide which can be built really tough. Ive got one in one of my cars and its great to drive with.

Turboing a stock RB30 will be fine as long as you have the fuel system there to cope with it and an intercooler just to keep intake temps on the safer side due to the high compression. A complete factory conversion will cost about $1000 off ebay. You'll need a series 2 block also so the water and oil lines have somewhere to bolt to. Theres bungs in the block which you just remove.

why not use the toyota gearbox ?
im assuming it doesn't have a divorced transfer case ?
im pretty sure my fj45 transfer case was mounted to the gearbox.

if u tell us what u plan on using it for i might be able to help u out with some info

To be honest I think an RB30ET in a 4WD would render it pretty much incapable once the tough got going.

Are you still driving it everyday? If not, I'd be looking at a V8 conversion if it was me.

why aido ?
if its gunna be hi comp it would be fine buuuuuttt
it totally depends on his driving style and the terrain he is on

Because as Ryan said it would need to be intercooled, which is totally not practical for a vehicle which is regular covered in 4 inches of mud. And also, I dont think a turbo petrol engine would be suitable for offroad work due to the way they come on boost. Imagine having it come on boost while trying to to control a steep muddy/gravelly descent!!

why would it come onto boost during descent ?
i'm thinking if u hit boost at the base of a massive hill or dune or just as u hit the deepest part of a mudhole it would be awesome ?

Intercooler doesn't have to be mounted in the front i would suggest mounting it in the rear somewhere as the grill is barely enough to cool the motor that is in it already.

Imagine the induction noise coming out of a snorkel !!!!!

While accelerating to match wheel speed with ground speed in order to maintain control.

true but still this of the speed he would have to be doing (yes i realise its in lowrange) and the kind of engine braking an auto gives u.

I'd be sure to have a big fuck off trans cooler aswell if its gunna be used hard

Auto's effectively give no engine braking. Thats why they are better at everything offroad EXCEPT descent.

OMG!!! Why the hell am i asking questions about VLs????
REDDDOOO!!!!!! okay i'm going to log off at joels house now!!
P.S. Please help jimmy get his whore going he still has a pair of tires to finish off!!!
Cheers
the real Cerby

Because i will fill it full of mud, and wreck it.......




Toyota gearbox? Because its really heavy. Im trying to get away with a lighter set up, with more power. the whole car ways stuff all the the moment, but i want it to weigh a hell of a lot less.

divorced transfer? No, i have a slip Tcase out of a 60 series, onto a 60 box......

it's heading it toward comp stage now. i want a lighter motor, that gives lots of power. hence the rason, why im not going to turbo the current set up. Tassie track, well whats left of them, are usally covered in water, so it will see a fair amount of mud, steep up-hills etc etc.

There is no reason why i cant place a large bashplate on the bottom of the motor, and then put a turbo bag? around the turbo to stop the water hitting it and possible cracking the turbo.

im leaning toward the XR6 turbo and box atm, because i see no point in trying to get unrealistic figures out of the current motor, and gearbox. All i wanted to do with the RB30 was see if the consept could work, and how well. + i have a few bits lying arond





Your right on this, if i can smash the autos (think i have busted another box) then im going to steer away from them. They are not strong enough and there shit.




Nah, it sits in the shed most of the week, being fixed lol. DOnt want a V8, because everyone has one, and has done it before. I want it to go psssssst lol






There are plenty of nissan gettng around melb comp scean now, and they all have turbos....But your right about boost on a decent, could be tricky but its all in good fun




correct. There awsome on accents tho lol




you didnt log out again, and STFU. im getting your posts up I dont do burnouts, i have never tried, but that ghey gearbox's are shitting themselves again..........

hahaha reddos back!!!!
Are you gonna be at joels tonight?? I'm about to go and do a midsemester test after only studying for 1.5 hrs so i'm planning on having a few relaxing bevs tonight!!
How did you go at that place with rusty yesterday?? Didn't get caught or stuck?
SUPERCHARGE THE 40!!!!

Your not after unrealistic figures but you want to use a turbo thats rated at 700hp??

An RB25 box is what your after. I can't see it being worth the money or effort to modify an XR6T box to fit the RB30.


There is a reason for that you know!

i think you may have me a bit wrong. I wanted to use the whole xr6 setup (inc, motor, and gearbox), and i can easily adapt the gearbox to the t-case. I really dont want to go a v8, because i'll need gas to keep it running on steep side angles. I just dropped the ratios to 4.88's and all it needs now are its 36's, 5 speed and turbo on the current motor. off rd, its damn fast, you can pin 3rd gear high and it will really shift along (we do navigation comps). All i want is a bit more go on the hw, and the 5sp will drop the revs to where they need to be, and the turbo should push it along better. Advise and peeps, seams to say, that the hitachi ht18s-2s from series 4-5 rx7 are the ones to go for (onto the 2H). I just dont know what to look for, regarding turbos, like T3's and the diffrent types, like a lowmount turbo, highmount etc etc.....but im getting there



Yeah good, hehe, didnt get stuck, and didnt giiiit caught






It might end end up being a possibility, and it would be easy to make up a bracket, but i just lack room on the side of the motor, and also room on-top of the motor....... I want to run the intercooler, and a oil coolier, to keep the amount of heat down. I also need to run a BOV if i do that, to stop boost spiking to 20+psi on gear changes........

An EFI 5L won't starve at any angle, and its a cheap conversion (<$2K). But turboing the 2H would definitely be my pick for sheer torque and cost effectiveness.

And while BOV's can be adapted to regulate boost levels, its probably not the smartest way to do it.

A good mate of mine in melb is currently doing that to his GQ swb, and its already costed him that much, and he's only got the mounts and adapter plate, etc...they say you can chip the holden 5L, and it will kick out more power.



How would you do it?

...boost controller...

Out of interest how does that work? never heard of it before lol

thanks, found this at wicky

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_controller

like i said, i get the rough idea, just the small things i need to learn thanks guys

This might help you understand a little better.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...V+control+boost