I was lucky enough to get the Quad Throttle Manifold from a mate. Its originaly off a 4age silver top although I have been told the black top manifold is very much the same. Once I had the new manifold I removed my stock one and took them to my enginer who made an adaptor to fit the standard mazda head and then to the Toyota manifold. With this he supplied two longer studs to replace the short mazda ones and also flush mounting bolts to attach the adaptor plate to the manifold. Along with this I needed some hose clamps, joiners and a few other assorted bits and peices.



To begin with you need to remove all fuel lines vacum lines and electrical connections from your intake manifold. You will find that removing your air intake pipe will assist greatly with accessing the coolent lines on the Throttle body. Its probably wise to take a photo of everything before you begin just so you know where all of these cable go.



Underneath your manifold will be a black support bracket the bolts into the bottom of the block and then into the manifold. To remove this you need to put the car on axle stands and crawl underneath and unbolt the bracket from the block. It is near impossible to unbolt from the manifold without removing your altenator. Once this is done useing a 14mm socket (i think) and an extension bar remove the bolts holding the manifold in place. At first it may seem impossible but with a little bit of fiddling around you can slide the socket down inbetween the runners of the manifold and undo the bolts. You will now need to GENTLEY tap the manifold with a rubber mallet to loosen the gaskets seal on the head. And hopefully the manifold will come off as seen here been displayed by Josh in this lovely shade of blue.



Next you need to remove the stock studs which can be done with a pair of handy vice grips and a fair amount of swearing. Once these are out replace them with the longer studs and put the new gasket inplace.



Next bolt up the adaptor plate using the flush mounting allen key bolts. And fit the new gasket for the QTB's to the longer head studs.



Before fitting the QTB's remove the vacum line manifold from the back of the QTB's as this assists in reaching studs for the manifold. Do up all the bolts and then reatch the vacum manifold. Once again you need to get up from under the car to reach all of the nuts. Its easier in some cases to have someone guide a socket and extension arm into place from the bottom and then have someone else to do it up from the top.



While you are at this point adjust the air bypass screws on the manifold to fully open. These screws can be found on the top of each Throttle bodie. Wind them out so that they are sitting flush with the top of the TB. This will need tunning later but for now the car should run.

Next you need to remove the mounting clip for the aircon line located on the fire wall behind the throttle bodys. This is easily done with a pair of pliers. This will later sit ontop of the plenium chamber. Next take the lower plenium chamber and fit this inplace not forgeting the gasket between it and the TB's. Then bolt the four tuned length pipes into place ensuring they are tight as this is what seals the plenum chamber to the TB's. And then finally put the top of the plenum chamber in place and do up the bolts. you wont be able to reach two of the rear bolts but a few tek screws up from underneath seal the chamber nicely.



Now you can reconnect your injector plugs coolent lines and vacum lines. You will find that there is a few vacum ports on the manifold that arent used these can be blocked with a rubber bung. You will have spare plugs for the VICS system and other solenides associated with the original manifold just disregard these.

Next you need to connect the TPS which require making a lead from the stock mazda plug to the toyota TPS. Using 2.1mm spade plugs and socket make a lead 500mm in length. You will need to file down the spade plugs to about 1.5mm

You will have to excuse my dodgy paint skills but you get the idea. This is looking down at the mazda TPS plug on the TPS sensor. The red section is the VCC wire or +5v. The blue section is VTA or signal wire. And the green section is e2 or the sensor ground wire. All you need to do it match these to the toyota tps plug and problem solved. Just ignore the forth wire on the Toyota TPS as this is an idle sensing wire that the mazda ecu does not use.


I cant seem to copy the image of the Toyota TPS pinouts but go to the bellow link and go to page 2.

Toyota TPS pinouts page

At this point its time to check all of your connections and make sure all your fuel lines and secure and start her up. I am still running the stock ecu and although the car runs it is running very lean to the point of not been safe. Im looking at fitting a microtech Lt10-s sometime in the near future.

seems g.t.a really does take you places!!! top work bro.. keep it up!!

I was going to say! When you said you were running it, I was like WTF

Are these Mazda donks AFM or MAP? Either way, you will need an AEM ECU of some description, but should be something very different on completion! We all know 4AGE's are the best

Awesome work mate.

EDIT: Have you been able to connect the throttle cable at all without modfication?

AFM. I looked at tricking the ecu by using a digital pulse adjuster or even a resistor to make it pump more fuel. But I just couldnt get enough fuel. At closed loop when I had WOT it was awseome:) So now just need to get it all running.

I fitted the mazda bracket for the throttle cable to the toyota manifold. I needed to cut a small section from the corner to get it to fit but it worked okay. I did find the cable rubbed abit on the top of the cable guide but that could be fixed by bending the bracket slightly.

Any updates on tuning with the ITB's ?