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How To Sandblast Your Car
Wagonz
post Jun 2 2006, 04:54 PM
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We just sandblasted my car so i thought i would put up an article.

car before blasting
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1. We hired a big aircompresser and sandblaster, and got a trailer load of sand.

Sandblaster
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Compresser
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Sand
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2. You need to use dry sand, so to dry it we layed out some groundsheets and spread some sand on them.
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3. Before putting the dry sand in the sandblaster it needs to be filtered with flyscreen otherwise the nozzle will most probly get blocked.
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Instead of filtering it staight into the sandblaster we filtered it into a wheelbarrow first before we started sandblasting so that it was quicker to re-fill the sandblaster.

Since you can re-use the sand you dont need as much sand, as the sand falls onto the ground sheet then gets sweep up and filtered again.

4. Hooking up the sandblaster
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5. Using the sandblaster and compresser
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6.Safety and breathing, i wore overalls instead of longpants
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7. Now your ready for sandblasting
while one person was sandblasting the other can be filtering sand ready to fill it up agian, and when it runs out of sand signal that its ran out and the other person can then turn off the sandblaster and re-fill it.
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Don't have your head too close to where your blasting because if the plastic gets too much bounce back you wont be able to see much.
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I blasted most of the except from inside and on the bottom.
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Now look and admire your work.

8. Painting with etch primer
What you need, thinners, etch primer, prepwash and spraygun with compresser.
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First blow out the car and around it with the airhose to get rid of any sand, dirt in the car.
We then wet around the car to stop dust going onto the car.
then wipe the whole car down with prepwash on a very clean rag.
9. Now your ready to paint
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When painting with the etch primer it is sometimes hard to see where youve painted, so make sure to cover all the bear metal. After we finished painting we checked over the car to make sure there were no missed spots.
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This post has been edited by Wagonz: Jun 3 2006, 07:24 AM

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GT
post Jun 3 2006, 01:27 PM
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nice one



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Nathan
post Jun 3 2006, 02:31 PM
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good write up, keep it up!



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Keepleft
post Jun 26 2006, 02:28 PM
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Good post.

Curious, what timeframe once set up, was it to do the entire car?


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nferno
post Jun 27 2006, 12:01 PM
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You shouldnt actually sandblast the outer panels of a car, It can warp, dint, ripple them.
Also you should of deoxidised the metal(a form of killing rust) as rust forms as soon as metal is bare. By deoxidising you delete the chance of rust coming through and ruining all your hard work.

This post has been edited by nferno: Jun 27 2006, 12:04 PM


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rodeolad
post Aug 1 2006, 09:28 AM
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good point inferno, steel has small impurities and sandblasting affects the metal, not sure exact science though

Go acid dipped shell thumbsup.gif


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post Aug 12 2006, 03:45 PM
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awesome write up good job!


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35NIK
post Sep 23 2006, 01:44 AM
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you did a GREAT job there! if I had the time i would give it a try!


also did u make a sand castle whille u where at it, that also would be fun! haha


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SIKUNIT
post Sep 26 2006, 11:45 PM
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as NFERO its not really advisable to sandblast the bigger outer panels of a car as the sand actualy causes friction and tha causes heat hence warping panels.

Ive seen helicopters being blasted with bean bag balls, same principle and timeframe but with no heat (no distortion), but havent really researched it a lot.

Also deoxidising the metal is a must, and if leaving for a long period of time i'd use a 2k sealer as etch primer is only single pak (doesnt seal and can absorb moisture.)

This post has been edited by SIKUNIT: Sep 26 2006, 11:51 PM


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Unfinished Proje...
post Oct 15 2006, 09:53 AM
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My old man was a spraypainter & sandblaster for many years. I'm currently restoring a car and he flatly refused to sandblast it on the basis that it would almost certainly warp the panels. My car is a Mazda 1300 which is about as much of a lightweight as you can get (under 850kg).

Thicker panels shouldn't be a problem, but the recommendation is to take your time and not overheat the panels, and also to use second- or third-hand sand if possible. The blasting process softens & brakes up the sand, once it has been used it tends to be less vicious!

Also be very careful sandblasting, with a compressor like that you could easily sever a limb.


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Guest_93RZTT_*
post Jun 7 2007, 11:18 AM
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PLEASE DO NOT TAKE ANY OF THIS INFORMATION SERIOUS THERE ARE MAJOR HEALTH RISK YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND 1 TO YOU A 2 TO THE CAR

OTHER THING YOU HAVE NOT CONSIDORED IS THE EPA... LICENCE MUST BE OBTAINED FOR BLASTING

_____THIS IS A REGULATED ACTIVITY______

MY REASON FOR ALL CAPS IS TO LET YOU KNOW THIS IS WHAT I DO FOR MY TRADE........

ANYONE WANTING TO GET THERE CAR
SANDBLASTED <---- INCORRECT
(ABRASIVE BLASTING) <---- CORRECT

USING THIS MEATHOD WILL KILL YOU......

GOOGLE FREE SILICA AND THE AFFECT'S ON THE HUMAN BODY.....

btw with the warping to the body work try googling soda blasting. we specialize in it.

cheers.

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sedate looking
post Jun 10 2007, 10:04 AM
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This would have to be the worse so called "tech article" i have seen.. Did you even give any of the above points a second thought? What about neighboring houses/ properties... If you had of been sand blasting beside me , i would of shown you exactly where you could put your blaster...

This is the worse way to strip a car...As has been said already, warping the panels doesn't even get a mention in your article, so clearly you have no bloody idea what you are doing , or what this can do to panels. Acid dipping was invented for a reason, to keep idiots from stripping cars with sand...


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MJG
post Jun 16 2007, 10:41 AM
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venom6
post Oct 30 2007, 09:42 PM
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hmmm,prob not the best way to go about it,been doing this for some time now and know the dangers that come with using (sand) its full of silica which is poses nasty health risks,better off using the proper blast media such as a fine grade garnet,also the friction created using sand can warp panels quiet easily if u blast front on or hold it in the one spot for too long,garnet is great for doing areas such as engine bays,door jams and sills ect but for panels bead blasting can be quiet useful as they don't generate heat,if gone the the right way about u can save urself a lot of headaches in the long run as u can see what ur working with.probably best to get done somewhere that specialize in this kind of work tho as its in a controlled enviroment that have to meet strict laws,also works out cheaper than having to hire all the equipment,an average size chassis to fully sandblast wont usually set u back any more than 250 to do,once done,trying to rid all the sand out of every corner is the hardest part lol thumbsup.gif
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55 Chevytruckrod
post Jan 3 2008, 11:32 AM
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QUOTE(venom6 @ Oct 30 2007, 06:42 AM) [snapback]1281580041[/snapback]

hmmm,prob not the best way to go about it,been doing this for some time now and know the dangers that come with using (sand) its full of silica which is poses nasty health risks,better off using the proper blast media such as a fine grade garnet,also the friction created using sand can warp panels quiet easily if u blast front on or hold it in the one spot for too long,garnet is great for doing areas such as engine bays,door jams and sills ect but for panels bead blasting can be quiet useful as they don't generate heat,if gone the the right way about u can save urself a lot of headaches in the long run as u can see what ur working with.probably best to get done somewhere that specialize in this kind of work tho as its in a controlled enviroment that have to meet strict laws,also works out cheaper than having to hire all the equipment,an average size chassis to fully sandblast wont usually set u back any more than 250 to do,once done,trying to rid all the sand out of every corner is the hardest part lol thumbsup.gif


Most of you folks are clueless on the "warping" issue. Fact: blasting does NOT warp panels due to HEAT. It can warp panels due to the pounding action of the sand. Consider a thousand hammers pounding on the tin....that STRETCHES the metal and causes the warping. There is absolutely NO HEAT INVOLVED! The air volume ALONE doesn't allow heat to be a factor. The simple solution is to hold the gun at a 45 degree angle to the panel. That will eliminate the issue. I blast on my property often, sometimes (but rarely) with silica sand. Although my nearest neighbors are over 300 feet away, if they want to voice their displeasure, they can do so over the din of my mighty 250 cfm air compressor. It's a free world, I own my property, and if they don't like what I'm doing, they can go pound salt. Sick the EPA on me, I dare ya. Bunch of pansy arses, all of ya! Argggghhhh!

Oh, and to 93RZTT: that was a mighty shamefull plug for your chemical stripping business. Shame on you for instilling the fear of gawd in these poor unwitting yutes! By the way, what do you do with all those harmless chemicals when you're done? Don't tell me it goes to a "proper" landfill, cause that's just plain hockey pucks. Less harmfull to living things than sand? I think NOT!!!!

Love and kisses,
55 Chevytruckrod hsdance.gif

This post has been edited by 55 Chevytruckrod: Jan 3 2008, 11:37 AM
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razor-
post Jan 22 2008, 02:56 PM
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By the looks of things he dosent have to worrie about neighbours...


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Guest_93RZTT_*
post Jan 29 2008, 03:47 PM
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QUOTE(55 Chevytruckrod @ Jan 3 2008, 11:32 AM) [snapback]1281772569[/snapback]

Most of you folks are clueless on the "warping" issue. Fact: blasting does NOT warp panels due to HEAT. It can warp panels due to the pounding action of the sand. Consider a thousand hammers pounding on the tin....that STRETCHES the metal and causes the warping. There is absolutely NO HEAT INVOLVED! The air volume ALONE doesn't allow heat to be a factor. The simple solution is to hold the gun at a 45 degree angle to the panel. That will eliminate the issue. I blast on my property often, sometimes (but rarely) with silica sand. Although my nearest neighbors are over 300 feet away, if they want to voice their displeasure, they can do so over the din of my mighty 250 cfm air compressor. It's a free world, I own my property, and if they don't like what I'm doing, they can go pound salt. Sick the EPA on me, I dare ya. Bunch of pansy arses, all of ya! Argggghhhh!

Oh, and to 93RZTT: that was a mighty shamefull plug for your chemical stripping business. Shame on you for instilling the fear of gawd in these poor unwitting yutes! By the way, what do you do with all those harmless chemicals when you're done? Don't tell me it goes to a "proper" landfill, cause that's just plain hockey pucks. Less harmfull to living things than sand? I think NOT!!!!

Love and kisses,
55 Chevytruckrod hsdance.gif



Read this and then pissed my self laughing...


Where did i state that i did CHEMICAL STRIPPING. Bi carb soda (food grade) yes you can eat it...... Ring me at my shamful bussiness number and talk to me I would BE more then happy to inform you about the warping issues and chemical myth's that you seem to be BRAINWASHED by someone who has no clue about this industry.

Ciao.
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r34magna
post Feb 11 2008, 01:06 PM
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why all the bitching let him do it his way the car looked allright take your time getting it all straight and it should look good i have built many old cars and sometimes the best way to learn is by stuffing up not by listening to people verbally bash you. take your time and keep it up all should work out fine
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post Feb 21 2008, 01:36 PM
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QUOTE(r34magna @ Feb 11 2008, 01:06 PM) [snapback]1281916033[/snapback]
why all the bitching let him do it his way the car looked allright take your time getting it all straight and it should look good i have built many old cars and sometimes the best way to learn is by stuffing up not by listening to people verbally bash you. take your time and keep it up all should work out fine


How about because what he has put up here as a "so called tech article" is actually illegal to do without the approved permits in place... No mention of the safety issue's with doing this, no mention of panel damage that can result in doing this... nothing...

WITHOUT A DOUBT , THIS IS THE WORSE TECH ARTICLE I HAVE EVER SEEN!!!!!


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misterstripper
post Jun 14 2008, 04:13 PM
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WARNING...DONT TRY THIS AT HOME

THIS IS BAD.. I HAVE BEEN STRIPPING AND PAINTING CARS FOR 28 YEARS, AND HAVE OWNED AN ABRASIVE BLASTING OR (SANDBLASTING) BUSINESS FOR THE SAME TIME PLEASE CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING-

THE USE OF SILICA SAND FOR SANDBLASTING HAS BEEN OUTLAWED FOR MANY YEARS DUE TO THE MAJOR HEALTH RISKS (SILICA) IT WILL DO THE JOB BUT YOUR KILLING YOURSELF AND ALL THOSE WHO ARE IN THE DUST PATH, THE EPA CAN ALSO ISSUE HEAVY FINES AND HAVE THE AUTHORITY TO MESS YOU UP BIG TIME. I WONT EVEN MENTION WHAT WORKCOVER COULD DO TO YOU, BUT THINK BAD.

BLASTING YOUR CAR IN THIS MANNER WILL CERTAINLY BUCKLE PANELS AS SOME READERS POINTED OUT IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH HEAT... IT IS DUE TO PEENING OF THE METAL WHICH STRETCHES THE SURFACE.

THE SAND USED IN THIS TECH TIP ALSO WOULD CONTAIN AMOUNTS OF SALTS WHICH WILL CONTAMINATE THE SURFACE AND CAUSE COATING FAILURE- NO AMOUNT OF WIPING WITH PREPSOL WILL GET RID OF THESE SALTS IN FACT WIPING WITH PREPSOL WILL SPREAD THEM INTO THE PROFILED METAL, NOT TO MENTION THE HAIR AND FLUFF YOU GET OFF THE RAG.

THE BLASTING EQUIPMENT IS SPECIALISED AND WHEN USED BY UNTRAINED PERSONS CAN BE DEADLY, I HAVE SEEN AND HEARD OF HORRIFIC INJURIES CAUSED BY THIS EQUIPMENT INCUDING, LOSS OF SIGHT, BLASTED BODY PARTS REQUIRING SKIN GRAFTS AND DEATH..... IF YOU THINK IM MAKING IT UP TALK TO WORKCOVER.

IN FACT THIS TECH TIP COULD BEST BE USED AS A GUIDE FOR WHAT NOT TO DO WHEN STRIPPING YOUR CAR.

IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE THE PAINT AND RUST FROM YOUR CAR GO TO A PROFESSIONAL SHOP, THE BEST METHODS ARE PLASTIC MEDIA BLASTING, BICARB BLASTING, CHEMICAL DIPPING (ALTHOUGH IM NOT A FAN OF OF DIPPING) TO NAME A FEW.

ANY METHOD THAT ETCHES THE STEEL (SUCH AS SAND, GARNET, GRIT ETC) CAN AND WILL STRETCH, WARP, BUCKLE, DEFORM AND WRECK YOUR PROJECT.

YOU WILL FIND SOME SHOPS THAT STILL USE THE OLD METHODS- MY BEST ADVISE IS TO AVOID THEM, WHAT SEEMS CHEAP TODAY WILL COST YOU A LOT TOMORROW WHEN YOU SPEND COUNTLESS DAYS OR DOLLARS TRYNG TO STRIAGHTEN YOUR PANELS TO NO AVAIL.

I COULD WRITE MANY PAGES ON THE SUBJECT BUT IF YOUR STILL READING YOU SHOULD GET THE IDEA.

THANKS FOR READING I COULDNT HELP MYSELF WHEN I SAW THE GARBAGE IN THIS ARTICLE.........

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jared_pulse
post Aug 2 2008, 05:02 PM
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i don kno whether to sandblast mine? there is side effects caused but its easy an quick tho..good article on showin how to do this

cheers


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Tony.
post Nov 6 2008, 02:01 PM
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nice right up


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post Nov 10 2008, 11:18 PM
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I prefer the slow chemical and sandpaper method, as above there are risks. Acid dipping seems a little retarded to me, what about all the areas the acid gets where your spray gun cannot?


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post Mar 16 2009, 02:25 AM
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I am not a pro at anything except landscaping, but I got a 1980 J10 jeep truck that I always wanted and I set out to restore it.

Aware of the risks of crystaline silica (cutting pavers and bricks at work), I rented a hood and small air compressor with the big diesel pullbehind compressor and sandblaster. I even wore a small dust mask inside my hood because I didn't know how bad "abrasive blasting" might be for me.

I was and am fine. No residue got inside my hood. I blasted my entire truck, didn't warp any panels (I also didn't hold the blaster 90 degrees to the panel!)

I put down tarps and screened all my sand before I reused it. A helper would have been nice!

When I was done, there was alot of sand in, on, inside, under and everywhere on my truck frame. Using common sense, I unhooked the gun from the air compressor hose and USING BOTH HANDS proceeded to blow all the sand far away from the truck. There was not a hint of it left. Some moisture came through the gun with the air, but I let the truck dry for an hour or two.

I used some rattlecan self etching primer in multiple very thin layers and the truck turned out beautifully! (Many cans later!)

I'm sure all you pros are laughing at my first and uneducated attempt, but using some COMMON SENSE (which has since also been outlawed in California), everything worked perfectly. My truck is quite nice and I am happy and healthy.
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isky
post Jun 22 2009, 09:49 PM
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Awesome article Wagonz! Thanks for taking the time to show us how 'YOU' do it....you other morons on here trying to bring him down, i dont see all you going to the trouble he's gone to to help out the rest of us. Quit your bitchin, your gay little caps and get a fu#king life. There's multiple ways of doing everything. This way is the Wagonz way. I do things different to how others would do them all the time. Neighbours! Health risks!! give me a freakin break. Sounds like all you complaining pussies and various business folk are trying to put the fear of God into those who would be so bold a to do things themselves and not pay you for your services. People don't just jump into a project like this without doing ample research, and not just after seeing one persons admirable effort.... so im pretty sure people will work out they're own best way. Wagonz has done just that and it looks great. Ive actually got quite a bit out of seeing how he did it. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work.

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